May 2022

 May 12,

Back from a little sailing in the Bahamas on the Liberty Clipper.  Mostly recovered from shoulder surgery.  It's time to get back to building that dream

While really thinking over how the plumbing will run and tank set up, I've decided that the chain locker needs to be built.  I need a tough water proof chamber above the waterline in the bow.  

The chain locker is going in the bow in this section.  I will need to install floors over the longitudinal and glass all of it in with an above the waterline drain.  

That forward section is where the chain locker  will be located.  Fortunately, it is all above the waterline.

So, I will need to line the framing in that bow section with plywood and make a suitable floor for the chain locker. I also have to build in two bollards that bolt to the keel and go up through the decking to bolt to the bowsprit.  I'll have to block those in and create the locker around them.  It's an awkward space to work but I think I have a good plan.

I've laminate white oak for the bollards or vertical posts.  This is a rough-out one for the starboard side.

I only used clamp and epoxy to laminate the bollards.  I did not what any fasteners exposed.  The bollard will be bolted to the keel and the bowsprit with 3/4" stainless bolts.

Roughed to size and ready for shaping. There will be a narrowed section or waste above the deck to receive lines for towing, mooring and docking or whatever.

 There is no room at the stem to drill the 3/4" holes for the threaded rod that secures both bollards in place.  I'm going to have to drill right through the hull on one side and then patch that hole.  No way around it.

May 22.

Just checking the fitting of the bollards. I'll need to make a spacer at the bottom since the stem is 3 inches wide and the strong back at the bow is 6 inches wide. I also need to cut them to size and start shaping them.

You can see the spacers at the far end.  Since this area will eventually become the chain locker, I'll need to box in between the bollards.  I have also cut the bollards to equal length and rounded the ends and the inner corner that will eventually be glassed for the chain locker. 

The boxing cut out and placed for fit. You can see the outside edges have been rounded.

Shaped and ready for fitting. 

Looks like they fit pretty well.  The boxing in from is a little tight and I will do the final fitting when the bollards are bolted in and tightened.  I have also made and installed the back wall of the chain locker as you can see in this photo.  

I need to finish putting dead wood in where the plywood floors of the chain locker will attach.  

March 2022

 March 23,

Well, I had to have shoulder surgery.  A big repair to the right rotator cuff.  I've been completely out of action for two months.  I think it might be time to get back to working on the boat this weekend.  I look forward to posting some progress.

January 2022

 Jan 4,

Happy new year everyone!  

I've continued to install decking and the sides of the deckhouse.  The deckhouse sides are being permanently installed with epoxy and stainless steel screws.  The decking is being temporarily installed with drywall screws.  I want to be able to remove sections for access until the interior is finished but its also very nice to have a deck to walk on.  The bow section in particular will need to be taken back up when I build the anchor chain locker.  This should be water tight with drain holes.  I plan on being able to wash the chain down while it is in its locker to remove mud and salt.

I am installing the deckhouse sides first so that the deck between the gunwales  and deckhouse can be cut out of half a sheet of plywood.  I've clamped the plywood in place while I measure for the screw holes.  A screw is placed every 3 inches (7.5 mm) staggered up and down by 1.75 inches along the top and the same along the bottom.  

The deck is beveled to match the deckhouse sides and the bulwark.  

I want the deck plywood to break over the reinforced bulkheads.  I need a short deck piece here to keep the one before and after under 8 feet long.

A finished side... at least to just aft of the deckhouse.  The deck house side is glued and screwed while the deck is just temporarily fastened by a few drywall screws.

Another view of the finished side. I've screwed a temporary piece of plywood over where the two pieces of plywood are butt glued.  This is to make sure that they stay perfectly aligned while the epoxy hardens.  I use wax paper as a release so that the epoxy does not glue the temporary board to the boat.  Eventually there will be some sort of backing of the butt joint but I have not yet decided on what it will look like. Maybe something decorative. 

December 2021

Dec 8,

November was a slow month for the boat for time and financial reasons.  I've switched tacks a bit and started fitting the deck.  I am only fitting pieces at this time since I'll need to take some of it back up for access.

Fitting the port bow deck in two pieces.

This is the starboard bow deck piece showing the bevel cut for the deck.  I set the skill saw to the shallowest angle and make the cut.  I then use the "T" bevel to measure the angle every 12".  I can then mark the difference in the cut angle and measured angle on the plywood and use a hand plane to steepen the bevel so it fits.  It usually takes a bit of iteration to make it fit tight.

It is slow going.  Measure, cut, fit, remeasure, cut fit...

October 2021

 Oct 3,

I'm starting to prepare the inside framing for the tanks that I have partially made.  I need to make one of the floor boards wider because the water tanks will overhang and not be properly supported.  I had a few ideas including bolting up some steel angle iron or stainless.  Both kind of expensive.  I had a big chunk of wood left over from cutting out some of the smaller floor boards and it turned out to be the perfect size and I am not using any of the dimensional lumber I have left.

I'm rough fitting the piece next to the floor board in the middle  of the picture.  I needed to notch it for the longitudinals and cut the bevel to match the hull.  This is the first fitting and it doesn't quite fit.   I'll have to trim some more off the notch.

I cut the bevel first and then marked where the notch will go.  I can't actually make it a 2" notch.  The angle of the notches on each end are tampered so the piece would not fit so I'm just going to continue the cut on the bottom to the edge of the timber.

I already did the port side.  "P" on the end is for port.

Back to the starboard side, I've made a series of cuts to the line.  Next, I'll use the chisel and cut these out.

I'm making sure that my cuts are correct.

And now the notch is cut, I can fit it.  As I said above, it will need a little trimming.

Again, I make a series of cuts with the hand saw down to the new line.

Chisel it smooth and it is done.

Refitting, you can see that it fits very nicely.

Next I drill for lag bolts.  I predrilled the holes for the lag bolts in the new timber using a drill bit suitable for the threads of the lag bolt.  Then I clamp the piece in place.  I take the drill bit and mark the holes in the floor boards by inserting it in the predrilled house and tapping it.  I remove the new timber and redrill all the holes to the shank of the lag bolts and drill the floor board suitable for the threads.  Add some epoxy, clamp in place and bolt together.  On these larger timbers, you can't expect the bolt to bring the pieces together.  The twisting torque is likely to sheer the bolt in half, so clamp tightly and then install the bolts and bring the bolts to just where the washers are tight. 

It's time to set the tanks in place to make sure they fit and to work out the plumbing details.  This port water tank fits nicely and I'm sure the starboard side will as well so I'm not going to place that one yet.  I'll need the room for now to maneuver.

The black water tanks where more complicated but they too fit very nicely.  I needed to check both of them.  Now I'll work out the plumbing details.  I already a general plan.

So if you are wondering how I got the tanks in the boat, well I borrowed some technology from the Egyptians.  I was going to have a friend come over and help lift but he ran off to do some camping. When you work by yourself, you better be innovative. 

September 2021

 September 6,

Well, it is Labor Day here in the U.S. where we celebrate working our ass off.  I celebrated by working on the boat and grilling out with my sister and wife. 

I decided to get back to work on the tanks after finishing up the main deckhouse framing last month.  That means drilling a whole lot of holes for the inspection ports.  The backing ring also has to be threaded to retain the 316 SS bolts that hold the port on.  There are 16 1.5 inch #20 bolts per port and four ports.  The ring has to be threaded, the port cap has to be drilled and the top of the tank also must be drilled and all those holes had better line up.  This means making an accurate jig out of some aluminum I have lying around.  A circle may be accurately divided into equal parts using a compass.  A simple Google search will tell you how; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TXnDbyApAM.  My advice is to always mark the lines dividing the circle with three points i.e. double the points in the video above.  Two measured points with the compass (each take two sweeps of the compass) and the center mark.

Aluminum pattern in the rear.  backing ring on top of port covers are below/

Drilling the holes that will be threaded in the backing rings or bolt retaining rings.

This is how we drill.  I'm using a small drill press donated by Mark Finger who is a cherished ex-boss of mine. He has since moved to Colorado to retire.

One of the tank tops drilled to match the bolt retaining ring.

August 2021

 Aug 15,

I have not ordered the HDPE pipe for the tanks yet so I can not finish them yet.  It was time to do some more word work anyway.  I've really missed the carpentry.   It is time to finish up the deckhouse now that I'm sure the tanks will fit in the boat with that structure in place.  I wasn't absolutely sure before.

I took all this apart and cleaned everything up and glued it all back together.

I've left off the trim pieces on the entrance.  I'm still debating the best approach here.

Measuring for notching in the longitudinal.  I'm notching both the longitudinal and the deckhouse beams using a half lap joint.  This will ensure that the joint does not weaken the beams at the expense of the longitudinal which really isn't structural.  It is more like deadwood for the decking.

A close up of the half lap joints.  This is actually a couple of hours worth of work just for this one piece of wood.

This piece fit so well I decided to call it a day after knocking it together.  No screws or glue yet. 

I had similar luck with the starboard side.  Now, all the framing is complete with the exception of deadwood where necessary.  It's now time to finish up the tanks and get them installed.