Monday, March 2, 2020

March 2020

March 2,

We did a lot of work over the weekend.  A lot of the rough cabinetry has been marked on the bulkheads including the deck and cabin outlines.  All the passageways have been cut.  I left a a good bit over some of them so I can retain reference lines and mark the deck house outline.  I'll cut them out later.
On the left starting in the foreground of the picture and moving toward the bow:  Hanging locker with shelf on top. Shower with head besides, V-berth stateroom with lavatory to the left.  V-berth forward. 

The passage on the right will be the companion way leading to the V-berth door.  On the left will be doors into the shower and on to the head.  The picture is being taken in the area which will contain the port and starboard cabins. 

What a convenient place for the plans.   This is the doorway leading from the salon to the main cabins.

Your not going to wipe the smile off our faces anytime soon. 


And time for something a little different.  I've got a great but difficult plan for the cabinetry which will require a bit of steam bending.  Actually, there will also be a lot of interior trim that I may use the laminated steam bending technique.  I have steam bent oak before.  I hooked up a 4" PVC schedule 40 pipe to a kettle and did it in my kitchen.  I'm married now so that is out.   Besides PVC kinda droops and melts over time so I wanted something a bit more durable.  My solution is to use 4" metal down spout that I have laying around.  I drilled holes in the side and placed short pieces of threaded rod below the centerline to keep the steamed wood in the center of the tube.  I make two wooden end caps, one tapered to be removed on the right the other with a hole in which I threaded some galvanized pipe I had laying around.  The pipe was attached to a chrome shower head pipe which was roughly threaded into the lid of a durable cooking pot.  Made a stand out of wood and bought a one eye burner from Walmart for $12.   That was the only item I purchased.  Put water in the kettle, oak strips in the tube and turned the burner on.  About 45 minutes later I had beautifully steamed oak strips.  There was just one issue.  Water was able to leak out the end but as the end cap soaked the steam up and swelled, the water became trapped and the wooden end cap was very difficult to remove.  So I'll drill a small weep hole in the bottom of the tube right before the end cap and I'll put the end cap in much looser than before.   

Completed steamer. 

This is one of the cabin roof beams dry laid before glueing.   I cut up some steel angle iron for clamping.  I took the pattern and transferred it to the table.  Added some 2x4 stock under the table top so the lag bolts would have something substantial to grab onto.  I then lag bolted the cut angle iron along the pattern.  I used 1", 11/4" and 3/4" width boards.  The 3/4" board is actually quarter sawn so it is on the inside where that gorgeous flecking will show.  These boards are cold molded so no steam is required.  

Same piece but this time I used epoxy.  I laid some plastic down to keep the piece from sticking to the table.  A lot of clamps were required to close the gaps.  

This is the bulkhead that will have the beam attached to along the top.   I've placed it above so it is ready to measure and fit  into place.  I'll have to be very careful fitting the beam, nothing is square on a boat and the ends will have to be notched around the triple shear clamp.  There is actually a bit more curvature than what it looked like when the bean was on the table.
March 32

So, I learned something that I'd like to carry on to my readers.  I've made two of these laminated beams that are 2"x4" actual width.  They are made up of 4 1"x2" pieces of wood.  After glueing up in a form and letting them cure overnight, I get 3/8" of spring back.  The one that bolts up against the bulkhead was easy to fix.  I made it slightly longer and used a clamp to reintroduce a little more bend.    Then I trimmed one of the joints at the end until  I had a near perfect fit.  You can see me fitting one of the ends in the figure below.  The second one I made, I got the same spring back but this one is going to be free standing between the deck carlings.  I'm going to have to rig up something to get that little bit of bend back.

I'm fitting the end of the laminated beam into the shear clamp (that ruler is sitting on the shear clamp).  There is about 1 1/4" that fits under the shear clamp.  If you look close there is still a small gap between the laminated beam and the shear clamp on the right.  This is because that 1 1/4" that fits under the shear clamp is about 1/32" too long.  I took it out and trimmed it up.

A real sweet fit.  The only issue was that the bend relaxed a bit and I had to use a clamp in the middle to pull it back up.  Once the beam is fit, the sides of the boat hold the beam to shape and there is no need for the clamp in the center.

The is the second laminated beam that will fit 18 inches in front of the one just made.  It will not span the entire width of the boat but fit between the deck carling that supports the deck inboard where the deck house rises.  
I've also started on building the laminated roof beams of the deck cabin.  These are slightly smaller, 2"x3" and not as long.  I'm going to try to take that 3/8" into consideration when I build the form.  Maybe a little less than 3/8" since the individual pieces are 3/4" instead of 1" so I expect less spring back because it should take less pressure to form the curve if the curve is similar.  Something else to take into consideration.

Wednesday, February 5, 2020

February 2020

February 5

I've been slowly rigging the hull so the roll-over will go as smooth as possible.  I've finally scheduled it for Sunday February 16.  Come on by if your in the Huntsville Alabama area and help or spectate.

You can see the chain hoist attached to the wall in the center far left of the image.  This is one of two  chain hoists that will slowly roll the boat over.  There will be two more on the opposite side preventing uncontrolled roll and two more at the pivot point to prevent the pivot point from moving or scooting along the floor.  The two at the pivot point will also be used to slide the entire rig to over mid roll so that we keep the hull to the side of the building.  There will be sheet metal skip plates and grease to ease the sliding.  
The attachment point to the post is a compromise.  I want it as low as possible to reduce the stress on the post but high enough so that most of the force on the hull goes into a rolling moment.  I figure just short of horizontal at the start will work fine.  Once the boat starts rolling, the rig will pass through the horizontal (or maximum efficiency) point about when gravity will start lending a hand.

I've already cranked the chain hoist so that the entire weight of the boat is almost on the pivot point.  It took about all that two ton chain hoist and that 6"x6" post could take.  Luckily when we actually roll the hull over there will be two rigs rolling the boat.  This gives me about a 100% safety margin by my estimation.

BOAT HULL FLIP WAS SUCCESSFUL.  Pictures coming soon... actually I did not have time to take a single one myself.  Ive got friends though and boy did they turn out for the day.

Here is a taste:


I learned a lot during this maneuver.  It took a minimum of 6 chain hoists with a minimum capacity of 2200 pounds (1000 Kilograms).  We also had three more come-alongs that proved convenient.  Sheet metal was laid down as tracks for the wooden rollers and the wooden rollers were liberally greased to allow easy sliding.  This turned out to be critical.  We always had control using chain hoists on one side to pull while using chain hoists on the other side to release.  We also always had chain hoists controlling the pivot point on the ground.

After the half way point, the pivot point control had to be switched to the other side while we used the come-alongs to slide the hull over opposite the pivot control.  I used 1/2 inch (12.7mm) eye bolts for all attachment points and most importantly, I welded the eyebolts closed so they would not open under stress.  This is critical.  Either use eye bolts that are factory welded or weld them yourself.  If not they will pull open.  We always had two chains for redundancy and to make things easier.  You will need a spare come-along or chain hoist to relieve tension on the chain when re-rigging.  At no point did we have a single chain taking weight.  Although it was not the chain that concerned me but the point of attachment.  There is a lot of stress on those points especially when the chains are at steep angles to the eye bolt.

It is also a good idea to have spare 5/16" quick links for adjusting the rigging.   Make sure all your chain and hardware exceeds your chain hoist capacity by a good margin.  There were times where we were actually pulling against each other putting huge stress on the hardware (and hull).  We learned quickly to recognize these situations and avoid them.  Avoid shock loading.  I used rubber bungees on the chains as a snuffer for the side that was releasing so that when they took the load, the bungees would absorb the shock.  I discarded them on the re-rig (when switching sides) after I determined that going slow was good enough and the bungees caused some difficulty when trying to re-rig.  This maneuver took 4 hours and required 6 people to complete.

Feb 26.

I've started marking lines on the bulkheads.  Lines to cut (actually cut one) and lines where attachments will be made for the interior.  Mostly, I'm looking forward to having a passageway along the interior so I don't have to climb over the bulkheads to get from one end of the boat to the other.  I've also cleaned up the shear but have not removed the temporary shear clamp yet.

Tuesday, December 3, 2019

December 2019

December 3

Well, I finally finished up the hull and all that sanding.  I went over it pretty well and filled all the little pin holes and dimples.  I'm sure I missed one but I'll find those before the paint goes on.  Right now it's time to prepare to flip hull over and start working on the inside.  To that end, I've removed all the scaffolding that will be in the way leaving just 30 feet on the wall side to attach pulleys and have people stationed for the flip.

Flipping the hull is a bit of a misnomer.  I'm actually building a jig so that I can roll the hull over until it is right.  I will use six 2 ton chain hoist.  Two to roll the hull over and they will initially be attached to the keel and two of the 6x6 posts.  Two also attached to the keel but pulling the opposite way to prevent the hull from rolling back (I might get away with using one ton hoists here).  Two attached to the pivot point on the ground to ensure the boat rolls instead of scoots.

A nice view from a ladder near the shop corner.  That's Fig in the door way.  He likes to help.

The hull looks even larger when not wrapped in scaffolding.
The first thing was to get a roundish outline to build the rollers.

Adding 2x10s to follow the outline.  This probably would have been easier to use an octagon but the round roller has fewer stress points and easier balancing points to take a break.


I took the aft one down and made an identical one for the front.  I had to customize it a little  to fit properly.   The trick was to make them identical.  Now it's time to layer on the wood for strength.

Making progress.

Essentially we have two layers of 2" lumber with 3/4" plywood sandwiched in between.  I've maintained contact with the hull as much as possible in at least the plywood and one layer of 2" lumber.  All of the joints will be through bolted together.  It will be bolted to the gunwale, building jig frame and into the keel.     

I almost forgot I needed to install the skeg keel stump.  This is the first of 5 or so pieces that make up the skeg keel.  The rudder will attach here as well as the prop shaft.  I need to install this before flipping the hull to ensure that I get the bolt holes drilled correctly.  I shaped the face that attaches to the hull a bit so that there was only a small gap.  I used two layers of woven glass between to make up the small gaps.  One thing I did a little different is that I used thickened epoxy (pea-nut butter consistency) just inside the edge of where the keel stump mates with the hull.  This held the glass in place and acted like a dam for the un-thickened epoxy.  I used temporary bolts to create pressure to squeeze out all the air and used aluminum tape around the seam so that the epoxy would not seep out.


It was very important to make sure that the skeg keel is perfectly in line with the hull.  I also used a sensitive bubble level to ensure that the skeg was not tilted to one side.  I tightened the bolts a little one after the other ensuring that I brought the skeg back to level each time.
 After the epoxy became tacky, I removed the tape and used thickened epoxy to make a fillet around the seam.
The fillet looks a little rough but it won't take much to clean up.  Having the seam a little tacky really made filleting the joint difficult but now I'll have a chemical bond between the epoxy and fillet joint.  I also had a little glass sticking out of the joint which ended up in the fillet.  That just means more strength.  

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

October 2019

October 6

We had a fabulous work day today.  A whole bunch of folks came out to roll on more epoxy, drink beer, eat and be merry.  We worked hard though and managed to get 3 pretty nice coats on... the final three.

We rolled on a nice coat of un-thickened epoxy first thing in the morning.  After lunch we mixed a heaping half cup of West System 422 barrier coat to 600 grams of epoxy and then added 120 grams of hardener.  The 422 thickened up the epoxy quite a bit so the next two layers are a bit thicker.  We also had a bit of trouble keeping the epoxy from setting up in our roller pans.  I think the 422 additive changed the thermal properties of the epoxy in the pot.  We went through quite a few roller pans having to throw out the ones that started to cure up.  Instead of heating up and smoothly transitioning into a hard state, the epoxy took on a texture that seemed like a bunch of spiderwebs were mixed into our pans.  Adding more epoxy early stopped the reaction but only temporarily so we were forced to throw out the roller pans when this started to happen.

For the most part, the finish looks great with just a hint of orange peal.
A close up of some of the worse orange peal.  The swirls above are from the 1/4 sheet palm sander.  Most of the hull is much smoother.  This is from the side that we did when we were tired and had difficulty controlling the cure time. 
This is fairly normal and just means that the texture of the surface takes on the appearance of the peal of an orange.  Sanding with 60 grit on an orbital sander quickly gets the finish smooth and then I'm following up with 80 grit.  80 grit alone is sufficient but it goes quicker with a light 60 grit sanding followed up with 80 grit.  Remember that the 422 additive makes the epoxy more abrasion resistant i.e. sanding will be more difficult.

I noticed one spot, about the size of a lap top, that was missed with the third coat.  I plan to lightly sand and re-role that area and any more that I find.  We were pretty tired by the third coat.

A view of the bow with just a single coat of plain epoxy. 

I found other issues like the bow section in the image above.  We had a lot of goopy epoxy that was starting to firm up on this section.  Basically some shallow lumps.  I got out my 5" orbital with used 60 grit paper and it did a wonderful job smoothing it right out.  Followed by a quick sanding with the palm sander with 60 grit ensured I got a fare surface.  Because there was some thickening in the epoxy, the final layer was thicker and could take a little extra sanding.  The results were better than I expected and there is no reason to re-roll this are.






It felt pretty good to be finished with the day.  That is my wife Laura on my right.  She is always helpful.

October 10,

After scrubbing down the hull with soap and water, sanding commenced.  It really seems to be a chore to wash this hull down.  I've done it many times by now and I suspect I'm going to keep disliking that job.  When it is finished, maybe I can get my wife to take over, she even likes washing cars.  The figure below shows the sanding on the side and bottom aft of the hull.  I started with 60 grit on a small 1/4 sheet orbital sander.  It works pretty well at getting the finish smooth as you can see in the picture.  I've already sanded to 80 grit near the transom.  I'll probably go over it all lightly with 100 grit before I'm done.
October 14,

I've almost completed the initial sanding of this side (above picture) of the hull.  It looks great.  There are a few small places that are going to require touch up but that's normal.  There is another area on the bottom of the other side about the size of a writing desk that seemed to not get the tip treatment.  I've lightly sanded that down and will re-roll with the other small areas.  Careful inspection of the other side did not reveal any issues at all.  I think that side will sand down much easier.  We were much fresher on that side and the temperature was cooler.  I may have pushed my help just a little bit too much but they are great people and the results will be fabulous.

October 16,

Still sanding... and sanding.  It is pretty hard work.  Not as difficult as using the belt sander and without all the fiberglass itching issues.  I should never see the glass again but I still have to put some muscle into the palm sander.  I have a 5 inch orbital that I've use (see above) in a few places where the epoxy got applied poorly and thickly but that tool is hard to hold and you need to keep it moving. It also might take off too much epoxy so I'm happy with the steady but slow progress of the palm sanders.

October 21,

I made quite a bit of progress over the weekend.  I still have a bit to do but I think in another week or two, I'll be ready to start building the structure to roll the boat.  This is an exciting and frustrating point.  I've always said that you take the building process one step at a time but when you're this close to completing a major step, your mind naturally wanders to the next step.  In some ways that's good because it is necessary to fully realize your next step before you take it.  In other ways it's bad because it makes you anxious to be through and that can make you rush critical work.  At these times you just have to take a deep breath and step back and find that Zen of working in the moment.

October 28,

I got through the rough sanding over the weekend.  I also recoated the few areas that needed it.  The epoxy with the barrier coat additive was very hard to roll.  It was 60 degrees F (15.5 degrees C) and I was using the fast hardener.  I think the temperature was the issue.  It was like rolling molasses.  This was fine for the one large area but it quickly became apparent that I should be using a brush on the smaller areas.  This worked much better.  I just had to follow up a few time to take care of the vertical areas where the epoxy had a tendency to slump when spread too thick.  I just lightly brushed the slumped parts back to where they belong with a near dry brush.  This remove some thickness as well as fixed the issue.  Once the epoxy became tacky it will stay were it belongs.

I've also been talking about using the orbital sander almost exclusively for finish sanding and with the filler.  I would have liked to use a long board sander for the filler but I just don't have a set up for that.  The long board would help reduce subtle ripples that I can still feel occasionally along the hull.  I think I'm going to have to live with them.  Once I put the first coat of primer/paint on the hull, I'll address anything that stands out.  I really think the hull is going to look great regardless.  The long board sanders are an expensive setup requiring a commercial grade air compressor for continuous operation.  If you've got the equipment use it during the fairing phase.  Otherwise the orbitals work pretty well.

The next steps will include a wash down with soap again to remove the blush and reveal any more pits and dips that need filling.  Sand down the new epoxy with 60 grit using the orbital sander.  transition to 80 and then 100 grit for the final finish.   

Monday, September 23, 2019

September 2019

September 23,

Sanding, sanding and more sanding.  Spreading on the glazing and sanding it off and repeat.  We are getting close to adding more layers of epoxy... the last layers.  I'm trying to make sure the hull is a smooth as possible so these last layers really go on smooth.  The finish should only require some light palm sanding prior to paint.

Slowly moving over the hull adding a skim coat of glazing.  You can see the raw application that looks pale yellow awaiting sanding.  Above that is where I have finished sanding.  In the foreground  where I have not yet applied the glazing you can readily see what I'm trying to do.  The rough sanding left the high parts looking dusty white while the low parts are still a bit shiny or darker.  These are the areas I'm targeting with the glazing.

Moving on to the bow section.  You can get an idea of how thick this glazing is although its fairly transparent when thin.  Small scratches and dings fill easily and require very little sanding.  Larger dimples and grooves require a little more sanding but it goes pretty quickly.  Sanding with a palm sander is such a pleasure after that heavy belt sander.  It just takes time and patience but almost no effort.  It's almost like meditating.  If your in a hurry, you should not be building a boat. 


The glazing is the two part product that I mentioned before.  I've had additional issues with not getting enough of the cream hardener mixed and ended up having to redo another section.  I've sense learned that almost any cream hardener designed for plastic filler (glazing or filler like Bondo) will work.  I bought some at a local auto parts store that sells paint and body working supplies.  It was a red cream hardener made by Bondo (a 3M company).  It worked very well.  The red was very intense and I was able to get a much better sense of the mixing proportions.  Plus I can add more than needed without fear of running out.  Basically, I use about 120-140% of what I think it needs and it works out pretty good.  This doesn't even seem to shorten the pot life any so there really is no down side.  I purchased a third gallon of this glazing and to my surprise it came with an extra 1 oz tube of cream hardener.  What's more, this cream hardener was brilliant blue and acted very similar to the red Bondo product.  It was almost like they read my mind.   If I need a fourth gallon (hopefully not) I'll toss the pale blue hardener in favor of the locally purchased red stuff.  It just makes it easier and less stress.

I've scheduled the next boat work day on October 6.  We'll roll on one layer of epoxy over the glazing and then put on two additional coats with West System 422 barrier coat additive.  This additive is designed to help make polyurethane more water resistant and durable.  The epoxy I'm using is already much more water resistant than polyurethane but it's not that expensive and the added abrasion resistance should come in handy.

After October 6, the hull will need a light sanding.  I plan on having another work day where we get about 5 people over with palm sanders and spend a few hours knocking it out.  Then the hull should be ready for a quick coat of paint before we flip her around.   We are certainly on schedule for completing this flip by the end of  the year.  Then we start on the inside.  Stay tuned.

Friday, July 5, 2019

July 2019

July 5

Today I spent the whole day sanding the boat hull.  Now I can't lift my arms.  Mostly true, sanding is hard work even with the best power tools.  Worst of all, as you get tired you can't keep the tools firmly on the work and you make mistakes.  Take lots of breaks.  Your good working time between breaks will decrease as the day goes on but fixing a mistake where the belt sander digs into your glass is a lot of work.  I've managed to avoid those type of mistakes but every once in awhile I let off the pressure and the belt sander skips scuffing up a place that may or may not need attention later.  The worse places is where I have to hold the belt sander on a vertical surface.  Gravity in not your friend at that point.  This beast weighs 13 pounds (5.9 Kilograms) and after about 30 minutes feels more like 50 (pounds or Kilograms it doesn't matter).

Sanding is slow going.  Plus that belt sander weighs a ton.  Notice the mottled look to the hull.  There are still dips and undulations that I'd like to fill and can not be sanded out without cutting into the glass.

I'm experimenting with skim coats of automotive filler.  What is generally used by the industry is a glazing putty or compound.  Unfortunately, glazing putties have very short working times and in the heat of Alabama basically about 15 seconds.  Good enough to skim a small area but anything else and you'd be wasting a lot of the product and the product is typically very expensive.  I've found another product that I'm experimenting with.  I 'm not sure yet how I'm going to use it.  The above figure shows a relatively heavy consistent coat.

This image shows a thinner spread with an occasional heavier spread.  Right now, I think this works better.  I've actually skimmed the entire area but the pale yellow spots are where I've applied a bit extra usually over some visual imperfection but sometimes that is just how it applied.  It's fairly difficult to spread thin and I'm learning to start with only a small amount on my putty knife.  Naturally, my technique is improving as I learn how best to use this product on such a large surface. 
The working time on this filler is suppose to be up to 40 minutes and cure to sand time 120 minutes.  First of all, in Alabama summer heat (95 F or 35 C) this is more like 5 minutes which is actually plenty of time.  Although one section I coated over 4 hours ago is still a little tender.  Too tender to sand so I think the it needs an over night cure.  I may not have put enough harder in but if I added more that would reduce my pot life.  Life is compromise.

Keep in mind that I'm planning a few coats of epoxy with West System 422 barrier coat additive over the top of all this.  It really does not enhance the epoxy water penetration properties as it's made for polyester resin which has lousy water resistance but it also makes the epoxy coat a lot harder and should resist scratches and dings better.  It's also only a few hundred dollars and that seems cheap insurance.

That hull is going to be slick when I'm done.

July 6,

The next morning, the filler is firm and ready for sanding.  I'll just have to skim coat sections and leave them overnight in the future.  I still have a lot of primary sanding to perform before I can even apply the filler.  Not today though, my arms are still rubbery and you need strong control over the sander to avoid having it skip on the hull and dig a gouge.

The following image is similar to above but I've given it a quick sanding with the belt sander at 80 grit  followed by a quick palm sander also at 80 grit.  I really like the results:

The product went on fairly quickly.  It required a lot of working to get the thin coat I wanted.  Make sure you only put a little on the trowel or putty knife at a time.  I recommend a steal knife around 6-8 inches like used in drywall finishing.  All the light areas are areas that have been filled.  All very shallow.


This is the product.  It comes with a tube of hardener that is pictured on the left.  I purchased it from Eastwood for around $67.  But google it, you can get it cheaper but shipping may even things out.  I've ordered quite a bit of stuff from Eastwood and never been disappointed. 
I'll add this important comment here:  This stuff is pretty toxic so keep it off your hands and use a good dust mask or respirator while sanding it.  Since it will be encapsulated in another couple of layers of epoxy I'm not worried about environmental impact.  

July 7,

So, I've been mentioning the short work time for this product (despite its claims) and I guess I subconsciously have been reducing the hardener to improve the working time.  The reason I say that is the goop I've got in the photo below is what happens when you get an incomplete cure.  This happened during a few batches on one area near the keel where I had laid up the filler a bit thick.  The 'cured' product was still rubbery after 3 days.  Sanding resulted in goop filling the grit on the sand paper and smearing over the work.  I used a few old sanding belts and powered through until it was all removed.  You can see at the top left of the photo where the sanded areas start to become white again, this is where the filler is completely cured again.  It's actually difficult to meter out the hardener and I've been relying on experience but each product is a bit different.  I'll make sure I err on the side of a bit too much next time.  At least the worst that can happen is that the filler hardens up on your pallet.  Of course you can always mix too much hardener and that may also give you a bad cure but I don't plan on getting carried away.  The instructions say 3-5% hardener by volume.  The only practical way to do that is by weight.  But I think I've got the hang of it now so I'll continue mixing by eye.  Oh and there is a tint change when adding the hardener so you can go by that as well.

A goopy mess because I did not add enough hardener.  I was probably subconsciously trying to increase my working time and got carried away.  I don't really remember what was on my mind at the time but I'll pay closer attention from now on.

Thursday, June 6, 2019

June 2019

June 6,

We have a big work day on Sunday.  A whole crew is coming over to roll and tip the barrier coat for the hull.  Keep posted for pictures and comments.

In preparation, I've washed down the entire hull and found a few small issues that require a little more sanding and one dip that requires a little filling.  I'll take care of that today, rewash those areas and we will be ready for barrier coating.

The work on Sunday was a glorious success.  We got one nice layer of epoxy on before lunch.  Everybody figured out their tasks.  After lunch, we got another layer on.  It when much faster on the next layer.  Temperatures remained mild for us in the low 80's F (~28 C). This gave us plenty of time to roll but it actually took a bit for the epoxy to set enough for a second layer.

Right before work begins.  Everything is sanded fair. 


Three layers of workers;  Ground, middle and top.  All working together to make sure the epoxy is coated evenly and each section is wetted into the next.  Tipper standing by to tip when a section is done.




Our fearless epoxy runner.  George makes sure no one is out of epoxy and that the dispenser cups make it back to the epoxy station.



I've already washed the blush off and started to sand again.  There are places that will need to be filled before the final layers of epoxy.   I've found some professional auto filler that has a long working life.  I'm going to skim coat large areas to take out the hull variations.  I'm using the belts sander with heavy grit and I'm keeping it moving over the surface to get an even sanding.  Dents and dimples easily show up as unsanded places like the image below.

This is one of those hull variations.  Someone  pressed their hand into the hull  and compressed the fiberglass mat.  It only showed up after some sanding.  I wonder who did that.  I've got their hand print so I'll figure it out.

Yep,  that's the culprit right there.  Unfortunately, that's my hand.